For our second edition Hox Sarnie Special in Southwark, we partnered with Londis N16 – the Stoke Newington family-run corner shop-turned-local institution known for its home cooked Gujarati food and cult following.
We sat down with son Priyesh Patel to chat all things family business, his connection with the neighbourhood, and maintaining your cultural identity.
How did Londis N16 start and how has it changed since?
My grandparents bought this shop in 1979 and my parents slowly took over in the 90s with big renovations. Since lockdown my brother and I have started to take charge more and take it in a new direction. Seeing our parents change the shop from when our grandparents had it, has inspired my brother and I to keep it up to date and really respond to the environment around it. We like to be in touch with London and world culture, and bring that to the shop.
“It’s really interesting to bring our home life into the world, especially being South Asian I feel like there’s a disconnect with what you’re experiencing at home with food and culture and what you experience outside.“
When did food become such a big part of what you do, and what does sharing those dishes mean to your family?
We started making Gujarati food for the shop around six years ago. My mum always had this idea to go in a deli direction after being threatened by bigger supermarkets. She always loved cooking, she learnt from my grandma. We’re always trying to develop and keep things new and we’ve learnt a lot over the years especially how to become more sturdy and creative.
It’s really interesting bringing our home life into the world. Especially growing up South Asian, I always felt there was a disconnect between what you experienced at home through food and culture, and what you experienced outside. When I was younger, my school friends would ask what I’d had for dinner and I’d say ‘pasta’, even though we’d actually eaten home-cooked Indian food. Having this shop has been almost healing for us because we get to talk to our customers about the food we grew up with. Dishes like dhokla and muthiya, which are now becoming more popular, are things people genuinely love and come back asking for. It still feels kind of bizarre.
What do you remember most about growing up around the shop?
I was always in the shop while my family were working. I remember all of my dad’s friends hanging out at the shop, and doing my homework at the counter with customers helping me. We still have customers come in and remember those moments.
If this sandwich is a snapshot of Londis N16, what story is it telling?
This sandwich is a representation of how food in the shop began, our green chutney mixed with mayo and samosas that started it all. My brother and I were in Vadodora in Gujarat and we had this samosa sandwich from a food stall – it was simple with chutney and crushed samosa in a bun and since then we’ve been making versions of that for the shop.
For The Hoxton collab we’ve added sambharo and a few other elements to make it really fresh and crunchy.
How would you describe Stoke Newington in three words?
Creative, calm and fun.
What’s your favourite way to spend a day off in London?
I love to experience the new food and wine scene. I recently went to Tiella on Columbia Road which was delicious, and Leo’s on Chatsworth Road. I also love going to Rio Cinema in Dalston and enjoying Hackney Marshes, Hampstead Heath and all the green spaces in London.
The Samosa Smash is available throughout July in The Hox Southwark lobby, from 12pm daily. Get it whilst it’s hot.
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