Autumn In Rome with Hox Friend Livia Lazzari
The Voodoo Jewels founder and Hox Friend shares her Rome, from slow autumn
Sundays to vintage treasures, golden-hour views and the neighbourhood spots she keeps coming back to.
Words: Silvia Curtilli
Photography: Valentina Lo Conte and Vittorio Bonaffini
Rome changes pace in autumn. The light gets warmer and softer, leaves along the Lungotevere turn yellow and the city begins to feel quieter, more intimate and made for taking slowly. For Roman jewellery designer Livia Lazzari, founder of Voodoo Jewels and a Hox Friend, the perfect autumn Sunday is a mix of the things she loves most: hunting for vintage treasures at Porta Portese, stopping at The Hoxton for brunch, then heading to GNAM (National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art) for an afternoon of art. But her Rome stretches far beyond one perfect day, into neighbourhood rituals, unexpected views, old-school pastry shops, wine bars and places tied to memories that go all the way back to childhood. We caught up with Livia to find out where she goes, what she notices and the places she thinks are worth slowing down for.
A SLOW AUTUMN SUNDAY
What does your perfect autumn day in Rome look like?
If I had to picture my perfect autumn day in Rome, it would definitely be a Sunday. I actually love being at the Voodoo Jewels store on Sundays, because it’s one of those moments when Romans have more time to wander around Monti and stop by to see us. But if I had a Sunday completely off, I’d probably start at Porta Portese, hunting for vintage treasures, then head to The Hoxton for brunch. From there, I’d make my way to GNAM, the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, one of my favourite museums in Rome. It’s basically my ideal combination: vintage, food, art and a very slow Roman Sunday.
What do you love most about Rome in autumn?
The light becomes warmer, softer and almost golden, wrapping the city in a completely different atmosphere. Along the Lungotevere, the leaves slowly turn yellow and the whole riverbank seems to change colour with them. Rome suddenly feels quieter, more intimate, and even more beautiful than usual.
“Rome itself works in a similar way: ancient and chaotic, monumental and imperfect, elegant and completely spontaneous at the same time.”
THE PLACES SHE KEEPS COMING BACK TO
What’s one place in Rome you always find yourself coming back to?
Piazza Vittorio, even though I’ve never actually lived there and it has always been quite far from where I grew up, is a place that has always been closely connected to my life. When I was little, I used to go to the Indian shops there to buy beads for making my jewellery, back when I wasn’t working with metal yet. I would go with my aunt to Fassi to get little sandwiches filled with chocolate gelato, or to Pasticceria D’Amore for a maritozzo. But above all, there was Roscioli’s pizza, not the Roscioli everyone talks about, but another branch of the family, the one that makes what I think are the best little red pizzas in the world. What I love about the neighbourhood is the contrast between the elegant architecture of its arcades and its multicultural atmosphere. I also love going there to buy tropical fruit and vegetables, which, more often than not, I end up using as props for displays and shoots.
If a friend gave you one afternoon to show them your Rome, where would you take them?
I would take a walk through the lotti of Garbatella, one of those magical places in Rome where it feels as if time has somehow stood still. Everything feels lived-in, spontaneous and incredibly authentic. There is something almost village-like about Garbatella, even though you’re still in the middle of Rome. Still in Garbatella, one of my favourite places for lunch is Trecca. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, with the feeling of an old-school Roman trattoria, but the food goes far beyond the usual idea of traditional cuisine. And when it comes to wine, trust Diego.
“You can’t really see it in a monument or find it in a guidebook. You understand it by living here, by talking to people, by watching how Romans move through everyday life.”
FOLLOW THE LIGHT
Where is the light at its most beautiful?
There’s a spot on the Gianicolo terrace, on the side facing away from the city, where at sunset the sun looks enormous and incredibly close. It’s one of those moments that feels almost unreal, very simple, but incredibly intense.
And somewhere simply to sit and take Rome in?
There are two spots I’d choose. One is on the Palatine Hill, at the top of the archaeological park, where you can lie down on the grass and look out over Ancient Rome. The other is Tiber Island, where you can stretch out by the river, catch some sun and almost forget you’re in the centre of Rome.
MONTI, AT HOME
Why did Monti feel like the right home for Voodoo?
We’ve always felt that Monti was the perfect place for Voodoo because it has this rare mix of authentic Roman character and a fresh, contemporary energy. It’s a neighbourhood where you still find independent designers, small boutiques and emerging creative projects rather than the usual chain stores. Via Panisperna, in particular, has a very distinctive charm. It feels iconic, but still intimate and slightly hidden away.
How has Rome shaped the way you create?
Rome has always been deeply connected to Voodoo, not only because it’s where the brand was born, but because I think the city has shaped the way I approach creativity. What I’ve always loved about Rome, especially when I think about fashion, is that trends don’t really exist here in the same way they might in Milan. Romans are quite spontaneous, instinctive and free in the way they dress and express themselves, and I think that gives creativity much more space to grow. In a way, Voodoo comes from that same freedom. We love vintage jewellery, old techniques and the history that surrounds us, but we mix them with bold shapes, unusual processes and a very contemporary attitude. Rome itself works in a similar way: ancient and chaotic, monumental and imperfect, elegant and completely spontaneous at the same time.
“That freedom is probably one of the most Roman things about the brand.”
APERITIVO, THE ROMAN WAY
Where does your perfect aperitivo happen?
Right downstairs from my place there’s La Mescita, a lovely little wine bar. Otherwise, when I’m in the centre, I love Il Vinaietto, very rustic, very no-frills, and unmistakably Roman. For me, though, what really makes an aperitivo worthy of the name is the light in Rome at the end of the day: soft, warm and welcoming. And one thing is absolutely essential: a strip of pizza bianca scrocchiarella to go with your glass of wine.
LIVIA’S ROME HIT LIST
For a long lunch: Trecca, Garbatella
For vintage treasures: Porta Portese
For aperitivo: Il Vinaietto
For a view: Passeggiata del Gianicolo
For art: Gagosian Gallery For a green escape: Villa Pamphili or Tivoli
For something sweet: Pasticceria Valzani
For an underrated gem: Tempietto del Bramante and Isola Tiberina
For an autumn wander: Trastevere
For a slow Sunday: Porta Portese → brunch at The Hoxton → GNAM
Make a slow Roman weekend of it at The Hoxton, Rome, with brunch at Elio and plenty of time to explore Livia’s favourite corners of the city. Rome is best enjoyed slowly. With Flexy Time, arrive early or leave late and give yourself a little more time for long lunches, neighbourhood wanders, golden-hour walks and everything in between.
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